Sakai vs. Philippe Groult
Originally aired 12/15/95
Iron Chef: The Official Book episode# 111
Iron Chef Collection episode# 348
A special challenger, for a special Christmas battle: Philippe Groult, who studied under Joel Robuchon at Jamin from 1981-84. In 1982, at age 28, Groult won the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF, a prize also awarded to Robuchon, and to Claude Le Tohic, currently head chef at Robuchon’s restaurant in Las Vegas). Groult went on to open his own restaurant, L’Amphycles, in Paris. He earned two Michelin stars in two years.
Robuchon himself has a few words for the Chairman: “Although it’s going to be an uphill battle, I trust his talents. I want him to proudly represent the true flavors of French cuisine. With his depth of knowledge, skill, and experience, I’m sure he can win.”
Groult challenges Sakai — a strictly French battle. The unveiled ingredient is “what the French go crazy over on Christmas Eve, with champagne glasses in hand–”
“Oysters!”
Actress Fumie Hosokawa (After seeing some of her other work, a special BKS edition may be needed. 😉 -Keith) and Honorary Chef French Yutaka Ishinabe join Kenji Fukui and Dr. Yukio Hattori on the commentators’ panel.
The chefs have 100 oysters from Japan to choose from; another 100 from France.
Groult begins by steaming some oysters, 16 of each variety, according to Ohta, despite Groult’s never having used the Japanese kind before. He stir-fries long-grain rice in preparation for a risotto, and cuts thin slices of raw salmon. Shark fin is used; not exactly common in French cuisine, as the commentators point out. Truffles are chopped, added to rice, and then chopped oyster meat is added. (“I’ve always wanted to ask this,” says Fukui, “can you find truffles in the supermarket, Doc?” Hattori chuckles. “Ah, that’s a definitive ‘No.’”) Cream is added to his rice; salmon roe; Parmesan cheese. (“That one may not appeal to Japanese palates,” Fukui says apprehensively.) He assembles a dish with Robuchon-like beauty: Atop rice cakes are sliced tomatoes and black olives.
Sakai also selects some of each kind, though more of the Japanese. He begins by going into shucking action (“You’ve got to have experience to do it that fast,” says Dr. Hattori). He starts boiling some, in the oysters’ own jus. He combines chopped pasta pieces, foie gras, and oysters, chills the mixture, then wraps it in spinach leaves. He hollows out turnips with a melon-baller, and boils baby clams, garlic, tomatoes, onions and leeks in chicken broth.
Sakai collides with a cameraman, spilling one of his sauces, shouts a request that the floor be cleaned, and begins a new batch of sauce. No estimate on the value of the truffles being mopped up. He tops oysters on the shell with Sabayon sauce.
“Well done, in there!” Ohta congratulates Groult, who replies, “I only did half of what I planned!” but, he assures Ohta, “The flavors are good.”
“How was this hour?” Ohta asks Sakai. “So-so. But, you know, the challenger is a great chef, so, I was determined to take my time on my dishes. Winning or losing is secondary, today.” “Oh, really?” asks a scandalized Ohta. “Well, I wanted to stay in control. If I win, do I get the MOF medal?”
Challenger Groult submits four dishes:
— Oyster Risotto with Tomatoes and Olives
— Oyster Soup with Truffles and Vegetables
— Oyster & Foie Gras in Spicy Apple Sauce
— Oyster & Salmon, Saffron Flavor
Iron Chef Sakai offers five dishes:
— Oysters in Rolled Spinach (with a baby cucumber with its flower, looking like a Fleur de Lys)
— Grilled Oysters in Sabayon Sauce
— Oyster Royale
— Roast Leeks & Fried Oysters
— Oysters in Deviled Sauce (in the hollowed turnips)
On the judging panel are songwriter Yasushi Akimoto, Fumie Hosokawa, actress Julie Dreyfus, and singer Yoshiko Ishii.
“This dish reminds me of the southern French food,” Dreyfus says of the tomato/olive risotto, “the olives have impact, and the tomatoes too, and although it’s winter now, it’s really nice to have some sunshine with our meal.” The saffron salmon “log” gets good remarks for its visual appeal, but lukewarm comments on its taste.
“The sesame seeds are key to this,” Akimoto says of the leeks and oysters, which surprises Sakai. “The potato shoestrings,” adds Hosokawa of this dish, “serving as the batter, is such a creative idea, so playful! Such a fun experience!”
“Using oysters,” Chairman Kaga says, prior to the verdict, “the two French chefs gave us sublime gifts. The food they prepared today is a great Christmas present for young chefs of French cuisine.”
Mignardises: Philippe Groult is one of Joel Robuchon’s proteges whose work is featured in the Patricia Wells book, L’Atelier of Joel Robuchon (See Below -Keith). This large, copiously-illustrated book features recipes for dishes created by Robuchon, Groult, Dominique Bouchet, Christophe Cussac, Benoit Guichard, and Maurice Guillouet. Highly recommended! Try making Robuchon’s famed mashed potatoes in your own home!
Rodney Schroeter
February 2009
Kitchen Stadium Board
1 March, 2009