Chen vs. Kentaro
Originally aired 6/19/98
Iron Chef, the Official Book episode# 235
Iron Chef Collection episode# 621
“Food is fashion.” So says popular food critic Kentaro, son of Katsuyo Kobayashi, challenger in episode 43 (ICOB) / 232 (ICC). The trouble with metaphors is… well… they’re metaphors. But the Chairman explains this statement. Author of four books, Kentaro applies to his food an understanding of aesthetics that he gained in art school. “Well, Kentaro,” urges the Chairman, “show us what you mean when you say, ‘Food is fashion’.”
Kaga begins his introduction of Kentaro with the statement that “Katsuyo Kobayashi was the first woman chef to take down Chen Kenichi.” What’s that? That’s not right. Error in translation? Mistake in the show’s script? Kentaro takes on Chen. Kaga explains that mother and son take different culinary paths, so it would be interesting to use the same ingredient as in his mother’s battle, to see how the two styles diverge. But–not quite the same ingredient. They are potatoes, yes, but new, or baby–just harvested from Nagasaki.
Commentators are singer Sachiko Kobayashi (whose recent concert Fukui attended), actor Junichi Ishida, Dr. Yukio Hattori, and Kenji Fukui. The Royal Box holds not only Kentaro’s mother, but a group of attractive young women, which the Chairman comments on.
Kentaro begins the battle by removing four or five rings, a watch, and at least one bracelet. (But wait–if food really is fashion…) “Looks like he’s at a pawn shop or something,” cracks Fukui. As Kentaro writes a menu, his mother urges him to start cooking. “I just can’t figure out what that boy’s making!” she tells Ota, and breaks into laughter. “New potatoes are very difficult to deal with… I feel the pressure just watching him from up here.” Her other comments throughout the battle include: “I don’t believe this! What is that? He doesn’t know what he’s doing!” Responding to something Ota says, she points an accusing finger and says, “Whaaat? You made that up!” (I often suspect that Ota gets a little too creative with his quotes.)
We’re reminded numerous times of Chen’s loss to Kentaro’s mother. He delicately cuts thin slices of potatoes, telling Ota he’s planning a dessert. He prepares a sauce with fresh cream, lobster brains, Chinese soup stock, salt, and sesame oil. “Lobster brains!” my wife shouts with a grimace. “Hey,” I reassure her, shrugging, “maybe they know something we don’t.”
“It was great fun,” Kentaro reassures Ota at the battle’s end. Ota prods Chen: “You said you just couldn’t bear to lose this one, right? A matter of pride?” “Ummm,” responds Chen, “well, it’s good to see sons growing up… uh, er, what in the world am I saying?”
The challenger submits six dishes:
- Sauteed Potatoes with Sea Urchin Sauce
- Potato Balls Consomme Soup
- Potato Salad
- Creamy Merry Curry (referred to during the show as Madame Merry Curry)
- Stewed Beef & Potatoes
- Vanilla Ice Cream with Potato Skin
Iron Chef Chen offers five dishes:
- Hot & Spicy Beef and Potatoes
- Potato & Chicken Stew
- Sauteed Potatoes French-style
- Fried Whole Potatoes
- Potato Dessert
On the judging panel are photographer Tenmei Kanoh, Sachiko Kobayashi, Junichi Ishida, and Culinary Critic Asako Kishi. “I’ve never had beef and potato stew this good in my life,” comments Ishida, to which Kentaro bows with smiling gratitude. “Well, I’ve known him since he was a baby, so he has grown up, hasn’t he?” quips Kishi. “It’s a very complex flavor, but it’s fantastic!” says Kanoh of Chen’s dish with the lobster brains etc. sauce. “The texture is just fine, too.” Sachiko Kobayashi expresses her ecstacy with this same dish by breaking into song. (Gosh–you think, maybe they DO know something we don’t?)
Rodney Schroeter
April 2008
Side notes: When I was at restaurant Stella! in New Orleans recently, owner/chef Scott Boswell stopped at our table near the end of our 7-course tasting menu. I asked him if he’d ever met Joel Robuchon. He gave a deep sigh. “I ate at his place in Las Vegas,” he said, “and had the best meal I’ve ever had in my life. I don’t know if I’ll live long enough… to ever be as good as he is.” For information on Restaurant Joel Robuchon, which will make your mouth water and your wallet quiver: http://www.mgmgrand.com/dining/joel-robuchon-at-the-mansion-french-restaurant.aspx (And, yes, I’ve been there. And plan to go again, later this year.)
Kitchen Stadium Board
10 May, 2008